This time of year I like to stroll the garden centers and peruse the online plant purveyors in search of spring-blooming bulbs on sale. I live in the Chicago area where you can place bulbs into the ground into late December before the soil freezes. But, there’s more enjoyment to growing bulbs than just popping them in your garden. I like to force spring bulbs to bloom indoors to create spectacular displays for the holidays (and for the dreary dark days that straddle the winter solstice).
My favorites are daffodils, hyacinths, muscari, scilla, tulips and snowdrops because they provide dazzling spring blooms although, truth be told, I love them all — from the tiniest Galanthus (snowdrops), which sometimes pop out of the snow-covered ground as early as January, to the big beefy King Alfred daffodils that appear three months later. In March and April, tulips with fringed and multi-colored petals mingle with grape hyacinths. Planted in groups of 5, 7 or 9 bulbs, daffodils in brilliant golds, orange and yellow — Jet Fire, Tete-a-Tete and February Gold — provide a punch of color to my flower beds. They fill the late winter and early spring months with plenty of eye candy before spring perennials and pansies start to bloom.
Stock up when bulbs are on sale
By early November the local garden centers are starting to place their bulbs on sale. It’s a temptation that I just can’t resist. To get the effect I want, it takes bags and bags of bulbs because you can’t plant too many.When considering bulbs that are on sale, give them a little squeeze to make sure they are firm and not squishy or rotting. They should be free from mold spots, too.
I always manage to have several leftover bulbs that don’t make it into my garden, and, that’s okay. I store them in our attached garage where it is cold, but not freezing. There, they have a few weeks of needed cold exposure before I plant them indoors. A period of cold storage is how to force spring bulbs to bloom indoors. It’s a real treat because having daffodils and tulips bloom on a windowsill brightens our home at a time when it’s often snowing.
Spring-flowering bulbs need a spell of cold weather especially if you want to force spring bulbs to bloom indoors. Don’t have a cold spot yet? Place the bulbs in paper bags in the refrigerator for a few weeks (but not the freezer).
Planting bulbs in containers
Starting in November, I put soil-less potting mix in several plant pots and small plastic window boxes. Then the fun begins. I plant mixtures of bulbs in the containers. They’re watered and set in a bright, cool window. If the bulbs have not had a few weeks of cold treatment, after planting I place the pots back in the garage. Once the leaves appear, I bring them indoors. Within weeks, the leaves and buds appear. By the holidays and well into January, our house is filled with an abundance of blooms. To keep the display going, I’ll stagger the planting every week or so from November through December.
Every container I use has drainage holes—a necessity—otherwise the roots can easily rot if you overwater. Because the pots are indoors, I always place saucers and trays below them to catch excess water so it won’t damage furniture.
You’ll need a small bag of soil-less potting mix that contains granular fertilizer. I fill the pots with moistened mix to within about 4 inches of the rim. Then, I set the bulbs close together because I want an over-the-top display. The pointy end of daffodils and tulips is called the nose. They may not have visible roots, but you should see some fibers on the base of the bulb. Larger bulbs go in first, nose up, and then I sprinkle a light layer of soil mix so that it barely covers them. Next, I pop in smaller bulbs (grape hyacinths or shorter tulips) and continue adding soil mix until it reaches about an inch below the pot’s rim.
If the soil is too close to the top of the pot, the soil will overflow when you water. Place the container where it will get low-to-bright light, but not direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Empty any standing water from the tray or saucer after an hour or so.
Getting the bulb combinations right
Some of my favorite combinations are a mixture of very tall daffodils together with short daffodils and grape hyacinths. Tall, white-flowered ‘Maureen’ tulips can be planted with ‘Baby Moon’ daffodils, which will produce three to five sweet-scented, canary-yellow flowers on each stem. Muscari (grape hyacinths) are wonderful as a carpet below yellow-flowered daffodils or pink tulips. Grape hyacinths grow to about five inches tall, they are not all grape-colored. Some varieties are white, purple, pink, purple and white, pink and white, or solid yellow, so there is plenty of room for artistic pairings.
Create tabletop bulb displays
Placed on a kitchen or dining room table, a coffee table, mantlepiece or a countertop, spring-blooming flowers make a room festive and inviting. For a fun centerpiece, I place pots of blooming daffodils and tulips on top of small glass cake pedestals. I scour resale shops for pedestals in different sizes. They’re inexpensive and add to the display.
Stage the pots in the middle of the table and surround them with small candles. If I’m using one large pot or a long window box, I’ll cut some small curly twigs from the garden and pop them into the center of the display. To cover the soil surface, I sometimes tuck sheet moss (sold in craft stores) around the base of the leaves. The flowering tabletop displays make for great conversation pieces.
Move the bulbs outdoors after they’ve bloomed
The best thing about growing hardy spring bulbs indoors for a cheerful winter display is that the bulbs can be planted outdoors in the spring. Once they’ve finished blooming indoors, I continue watering until the leaves become dry. When the leaves are totally dry, I plant the bulbs outdoors. An exception is paperwhite narcissus—a tender daffodil that is not hardy in our Zone 5 garden. Once they finish blooming indoors, they go into the compost pile.
Tulip bulbs do not like to be in wet soil in the summer, so I pop them into a shade garden where drought-tolerant perennials, such as hellebores, epimedium and hostas grow. By the time the bulbs finish blooming the following spring, the perennials cover up the dying leaves.
Time to start the bulb forcing process
There’s plenty of time left to purchase bulbs on sale and to prepare to force spring bulbs to bloom indoors. Check out the local garden centers, big-box stores, and the online resources below. As long as the soil has not frozen, you can go ahead and plant outdoors. And, once your extra fall bulbs get a cooling period in a garage or in the refrigerator, they’ll be ready for planting indoors. Get those bulbs now, so you can brighten the dark, cold winter months ahead with a little hint of spring. Happy Growing.
Online bulb sources
John Scheepers
www.johnscheepers.com
Old House Gardens Heirloom Bulbs
https://oldhousegardens.com
Netherland Bulb Co.
https://www.netherlandbulb.com
K. van Bourgondien
www.dutchbulbs.com
Good ‘reads’ (about bulbs):
“Tabletop Gardens: 40 Stylish Plantscapes for Counters and Shelves, Desktops and Windowsills,” (Storey Publishing, 168 pages).
“Timber Press Pocket Guide to Bulbs,” (Timber Press, 228 pages)
“Daffodil: The Remarkable Story of the World’s Most Popular Spring Flower” (Timber Press, 220 pages)
More bulb information:
American Daffodil Society
https://daffodilusa.org
Brent and Becky’s
https://www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com
Who doesn’t love the wide world of tulips that will be soon on display at your favorite public garden? How would you like to create something similar in your home garden, albeit on a slightly smaller scale? It’s not that difficult, and it’s definitely worth the effort.
In this article, Jean Starr, one of the top contributors at PlantersPlace.com, discusses the various types of tulips and how to shop for each including some of the best online sources that are taking orders now.
It is hard not to be in awe of the beauty found in tulips. Their colors range from vivid crayon shades to pastel and they come in forms that run the gamut from parrot and lily-flowered to fringed, double and multi-flowering. There are tall ones, short ones, and even mid-sized ones. Some tulip varieties appear early and others quite a bit later.
The Problem with Tulips – One Hit Wonders!
In Jean Starr’s view, tulips are the ultimate luxury — kind of like a wedding gown — generally to be worn only once and during a ‘memorable ceremony’. In the first year after planting, a tulip’s beauty is unquestioned, yet if left to bloom again in subsequent years, it’s often its evil twin that returns — distorted, dwarfed and pale.
It’s admittedly difficult for ordinary gardeners to discard plants whose blossoms are remembered as being so breathtaking. But that is just what the professionals at the botanical gardens do. Once the spring bulb displays are complete, tulips are pulled up by the thousands in preparation for the next display. Mimicking the pros is pretty much impractical for the typical home gardener.
Tulips That Are Truly Perennials
Instead, home gardeners – even those in the passionate category – want more than a one-year commitment from their tulips. Fortunately, there are options. “We find that Darwin hybrids are the best for re-blooming, large-blossom tulips,” says Lorraine Calder of White Flower Farm. “Species tulips – another variety – are smaller-flowered and are also good repeat bloomers since they are so closely related to their native cousins.”
Kathleen LaLiberté of Longfield Gardens concurs. “Even for Darwin hybrids to come back more than a couple years, they need to be planted in an ideal spot that’s similar to where they would have grown in the wild: winters are cold, summers are hot and dry, and the soil is gritty and well-drained.”
There are no guarantees tulips that are labeled as such make good perennials, able to return and even multiply each year. But there are some that are much more likely than others if planted according to label directions. According to Atlanta Botanical Garden, Tulipa clusiana, Tulipa tarda, and Tulipa kaufmanniana (in particular “Red Riding Hood”) come back year after year and multiply if planted in the correct spot.
Three tulips that have been coming back in my garden each year since 2013 are ‘Analita’, ‘Exotic Emperor’ and ‘Honky Tonk’.
‘Analita’ and ‘Exotic Emperor’ are varieties of Tulipa fosteriana, a wild species of tulip found in mountainous areas of Central Asia. More commonly known as Emperor Tulips, (hence the names containing “Emperor”), Fosteriana Tulips are known for their ability to return year after year.
‘Honky Tonk’ is a named variety of the species Tulipa batalinii. Native to Uzbekistan, this division of tulip typically produces single, soft yellow flowers on 6 -10” stems in April. It’s one of the best naturalizers, increasing in numbers to the point where I’ve divided them to plant in more places. Their narrow leaves make them easier to blend into the background when they’ve finished blooming. One of the best mixers for ‘Honky Tonk’ has been Grecian windflower (Anemone blanda) with its low-growing daisy-shaped blossoms that bloom at the same time as ‘Honky Tonk’.
Planting Annuals with Tulips
For those hoping for another tulip show next spring, planting annuals in the bed is a good way to disguise the dying tulip foliage. It’s best, however to select annuals that don’t require lots of moisture. Good choices would be Salvia, Euphorbia, Cosmos, Bachelor’s buttons, Cleome, Dusty miller, globe amaranth (Gomphrena), or blue thimble flowers.
Perennials That Work with Tulips
Dozens of perennial plants also can be grown among the tulips. Lorraine Calder recommends Bergenia, perennial Geranium, Myosotis sylvatica, Ajuga. Phlox subulata or Sedum ‘Angelina’. An interesting trial was conducted by Cornell University Department of Horticulture in Ithaca, NY (Hardiness zone 5), in which spring blooming bulbs were combined with established perennials to determine whether the two would be compatible planting companions. The trials were planted fall of 2004 at the Bluegrass Lane Research Facility; flowering and timing data were collected in 2005-2007.
The Time to Order Tulips Is Now (spring)
Whether you choose the “one hit wonders” of the tulip world, or the species tulips that are likely to come back each year, planting a few or a few dozen tulip bulbs this fall is an easy enough exercise. But while the tulips are fresh in the ground and fresh in your mind, it’s a good idea to order them. As you visit botanical gardens to see the magnificent spring bulb displays, make notes and take photos so you will remember what captured your attention. The bulbs won’t arrive until fall, so you might want to make a note after you order as a reminder.
Analita Tulips / Parrot Tulips / White Tulips (l to r) – photos by Jean Starr
Five Unusual Tulip Types: (courtesy of ibulb.org)
Tulip Planting Tips
Lorraine Calder, of White Flower Farm, offers some planting tips for Zones 3 through 5:
Tulip Planting Depth
No matter which type of tulip you choose, one of the details to keep in mind is planting depth. LaLiberté recommends sticking with the recommended depth, which is typically around three times the height of the bulb. Check the package instructions for each variety. One reason for the suggested depth is winter temperature variations, which can serve to heave bulbs out of the ground if they’re not planted deep enough. Even if the bulbs will be removed after blooming, for the best show, it’s best to stick to the prescribed depth.
How to Help Tulips to Avoid Diseases
Tulip bulbs are susceptible to some fungal diseases. “If you plan to replant tulips in the same place (where tulips have been grown previously), it’s best to dig out the bulbs each spring. That way the old bulbs aren’t sitting around inviting disease problems,” says LaLiberté. “If no more tulips will be going in, just cut off the foliage and the bulbs will decay over the course of the growing season.”
Tulips Don’t Like Too Much Moisture
Tulips love a long, hot summer. They prefer to be left to whither in place, reaping the benefits of photosynthesis through their leaves. What they don’t love is too much moisture and supplemental fertilizer.
Tulip Tidbits
Sources for Tulip Bulbs
Most of the following online sources are taking orders now for bulbs that will be shipped at the proper fall planting time.
When many of us think of planting bulbs, the usual suspects come to mind – tulips, daffodils, crocus and the rest of the spring flowering beauties that help usher in warmer temperatures and sunnier days. But, there are a number of other bulbs that, if planted now, add pops of vibrant color to the summer landscape as well, and will serve as a welcome pick-me-up later when perennials may be flagging. Following are six outstanding choices to get your summer garden growing.
Dinner Plate Dahlias
My favorite of the summer flowering bulbs are the striking and multi-petal dahlias. Available in various heights, colors, and sizes (even a so-called ‘Dinner Plate Dahlia’), dahlias are easy to grow and bloom consistently from summer right through into the fall. They are an excellent addition to the flowerbed, and an absolute must for a cutting garden, as they are dazzling in bouquets and arrangements. Bulbs, or tubers, can be planted as soon as the danger of frost has passed in a sunny and moist, but well-drained, location. Taller varieties should be staked to prevent wind, heavy rain, or even a hefty bloom from breaking the stem.
Show-stopping Gladiolus
Native to South Africa and originally, and aptly, known as “sword lily,” gladiolus is another bulb that can be planted in spring for show-stopping drama later in the season. Instantly recognizable with its tall spiky stalks covered in blooms, gladioli come in a wide range of colors and add height (stems can reach 4 – 6 feet) to the back row of perennial beds. It has high impact when used as focal point, as well. Bulbs should be planted in full sun, and prefer well-drained, sandy loam soil. Don’t be afraid to cut them! Glads look spectacular when grouped in a vase, and are great mixed with other flowers in an arrangement.
Hardy Caladium (Elephant Ears)
Have a tough-to-fill shady spot in the garden? There’s a bulb for that! Not only are caladiums hardy and easy to grow, they are known for their elegant foliage that provides consistent visual interest while the flowers come and go in the rest of your landscape. Caladiums are available with streaky pinks, whites, or reds running through their billowy, heart-shaped leaves. Bulbs perform best when planted in well-drained soil, though some varieties will tolerate sun with a bit of extra watering. Plant after the danger of frost has passed, or start them indoors to get a jump on the growing season. And, try massing caladiums in pots for a different, but lovely, take on container planting.
Eye-catching Canna Lilies
Every year the swimming pool near my house fills its flowerbeds with canna lilies, and even if I’m not able to stop and take a dip as often as I’d like, I feel instantly transported to a tropical isle each time I pass by and see the glossy leaves and brightly colored flowers beckoning. Foliage is eye-catching in greens, browns, reds, and purples, and the bold flowers are dynamic whether they’re red, pink, yellow, or white. Cannas commonly reach 3-5 feet in height, with some even stretching to 8 feet. And despite their towering stalks, cannas rarely require staking since stems are sturdy and thick. They love the heat and full sun, so plant bulbs, or rhizomes, in a bright spot after the last frost. Mulch plants and water deeply at least once a week to keep soil moist.
Asiatic Lilies for Bees and Butterflies
Asiatic lilies, with their upright stems and trumpet-shaped flowers are true lilies, members of the genus Lilium, and not to be confused with the somewhat more commonly encountered daylilies. Flowers can be orange, yellow, red, white, or pink. The blooms are showy and often fragrant which makes them attractive to butterflies, bees – and people, too! Blooms not only look great in the flowerbed, but are fantastic when cut for arrangements. Bulbs are easy to grow and relatively carefree, as long as they’re planted in well-drained soil with 6-8 hours of sunlight every day. Asiatic lilies benefit from soil amended with organic matter, mulch, and regular watering, and taller varieties can be staked to prevent them from flopping over after a heavy rainfall. Plants typically vary in height from 2-4 feet, so for best results choose the right plant for the right place.
Mid-to-late Summer Crocosmia
Crocosmia, with its spiky foliage and gracefully arcing blooms, is a great choice for a sunny spot. Members of the iris family, crocosmia can be planted when the danger of frost has passed for mid-late summer blooms that last until fall. Stems regularly reach two feet in height and the flowers, in shades of warm reds, yellows, and oranges are mildly fragrant and great for cutting and bringing indoors. Leaves sometimes have a pleated or rippled appearance that provide a nice contrast to their flowers and makes them distinctive in the flowerbed. Since crocosmia won’t thrive in soggy conditions, be sure to plant it in well-drained, slightly acidic soil.
How to Care for These Plants in the Fall
You really can’t go wrong with any of the choices on this list. All are summer-blooming bulbs and low maintenance without sacrificing on beauty, and most can be preserved from one year to the next by digging them up in the fall and keeping them over the winter. As the weather starts to cool off, and foliage begins to yellow, gently dig up bulbs, (or corms, tubers, rhizones), shake off loose dirt, rinse, and allow them to dry completely before storing. Discard any bulbs that are shriveled or have signs of disease and trim off the stems and foliage. Layer bulbs in containers filled with newspaper or another storage medium, making sure to give them plenty of space so there’s no overlapping. Store the containers in a cool, dry location such as a garage or unheated basement. And don’t forget to label your bulbs! In very early spring, bulbs can be planted indoors in pots to be moved outdoors when the weather warms up, or wait until soil temperatures start to climb and plant the bulbs directly in the ground for another great summer show.
Tulips and daffodils pop to the top of the mind in fall when bulb-planting season rolls around. But there are so many more bulbs that wait until June, or even July to unfurl their colorful blooms. And they all should be planted at the same time as the spring-bloomers. Here is a list of six summery candidates that should be planted in fall:
Allium:
Allium carinatum surprises gardeners by blooming in July.
We know, and possibly grow, the great, big, Seuss-like big-headed Allium, most of which bloom along with the peonies. But there are several, more subtle Allium species that offer a whole new look in June and July.
Dichelostemma:
Dichelostemma is a genus with five species including distributed throughout the western United States, especially in northern California. According to the Pacific Bulb Society, D. congestum, which is commonly known as forktooth ookow or congested snake lily, is found in meadows and open woods from central California extending north of California into Canada. It blooms from April to June carrying dense, many-flowered clusters. In Arizona desserts, it blooms along with California poppy, often as early as March.
The good news for those in colder climates is that it’s hardy enough for the Midwest. Planted in clusters of at least a dozen, these 20” tall violet beauties will look great along with other early June bloomers.
Eremurus:
Foxtail lily is the common name for these stately flowers, but they have nothing to do with lilies. They’re one of the most exotic-looking bulbs of summer, emerging like rockets reaching up to four feet tall before unfurling each individual yellow, white, pink or orange floret from bottom to top.
It’s good to plant these brittle, star-shaped roots as soon as they arrive in the mail. Select the planting spot with care because they don’t like to be moved, and they don’t like overplanting or a lot of digging around them. They shouldn’t be transplanted unless absolutely necessary.
The Chicago Botanic Garden suggests digging a 15-inch wide hole six inches deep in the prepared site, and mounding a shallow cone of soil in the center. To improve drainage, add an inch or two of coarse sand before spreading the roots out over the cone. Cover with 4 to 6 inches of soil. Also called Desert Candles, Eremurus grow from 48” to 60” tall, and are hardy from Zones 6-9 (Zone 5 with two inches of protective mulch after the ground freezes.)
Lilium:
‘Guinea Gold’ is a martagon hybrid that might take two years to bloom. It’s worth the wait.
Examples of Lilium include those found at supermarkets around Easter and Mother’s Day. Some grow well above our heads, while others, like the Lily Looks series, just graze our knees. While there are close to 100 species, most of what is commonly available are hybrids, or crosses of two or more species. It’s a win-win, because the hybrids have been bred for disease resistance and increased vigor. I select most lilies for fragrance, but I also prefer the light colored lilies that seem to glow at dusk. While most of my lilies bloom in July, some start as early as peony season. Depending on which species or hybrid, hardiness of Lilium ranges from Zone 3 to Zone 8, so check each individual variety. Here are several I can recommend for Zones 5 and 6. Months listed indicate when they typically begin to bloom.
Ixiolirion
A close-up of the flower cluster of Ixiolirion.
If plants were as difficult to grow as their names are to pronounce, gardens certainly would be limited. Ixiolirion tataricum ssp pallasii has a couple of common names, including Siberian Lily or Tartar Lily, and is native to the steppes of Asia minor, Afghanistan and Syria. It’s incredibly hardy if planted in a sunny, well-drained spot, makes a great companion to peonies, and lasts several days as a cut flower.
Plant Ixiolirion (pronounced ICKS–e– o– LEER–eon) in groups, because each plant is rather wispy. Each individual stem reaches about 18” tall and is topped with a cluster of lavender blooms. It stands up without support, especially if planted in a sunny spot.
Ixiolirion are short-lived, meaning they will thrive in a good location in Zone 6 or colder for a few years before petering out. Mine lasted five years, but they are inexpensive to purchase. You can purchase them at John Scheepers in Bantam, CT.
Ornithogalum
Another tongue-twisting name for an easy-to-grow bulb, Ornithogalum (or-nih-THOG-uh -um) consists of several species; I have grown and can recommend one of the many species that has not been reported as invasive in the U.S. Several years ago I told another gardener I had planted Ornithogalum. Before I could mention which one, she reprimanded me for even considering such an invasive plant. Ornithogalum umbellatum is the species she was thinking of, often popping vigorously up out of nowhere, usually in the lawn, looking pretty for about a week when it offers pretty white flowers. Ornithogalum umbellatum is still widely offered in some plant catalogs or on websites.
Ornithogalum magnum (giant starflower) is a species I can recommend to anyone from beginning to experienced gardeners. In mid to late May, their stems emerge like asparagus (to which it’s related) and turn into white wands with individual florets opening from the bottom up. It’s 24” – 36” tall, and I’ve never had to stake it. It makes a great cut flower, increases slowly, needing division after about four years. The only “problem” I’ve had with my Ornithogalum magnum was during a drought and roving bands of raccoons dug some of them up.
Recommended with Caution*:
Ornithogalum nutans (silver bells) have come and gone from my garden in a random fashion, and it’s probably because I haven’t found the right place for them. According to the John Scheepers website, it’s not very hardy (to Zone 6) and should be covered with two inches of mulch after the soil freezes. I’m not ready to give up, because these silvery flowers on sturdy, 12”-15” stems make great cut flowers and will brighten up any somewhat shady space. 3-12, silver, green and white flowers blooming alternately towards the top of 12″-15″.
*Although I’ve had trouble getting this species to grow, reports from various areas of the country state that they are invasive. If you would like to try them anyway, watch them for that tendency in your garden.
Sources:
American Meadows
Brent & Becky’s Bulbs
Easy to Grow Bulbs
John Scheepers
Longfield Gardens
Old House Gardens